Day 110: mile 2390.6 - 2405.3
- Alpine Lakes Wilderness
- Panoramas
After a hot double breakfast (it's going to take me a while to get used to eating a single breakfast once I get off the trail) and an unusual amount of socialization/procrastination while waiting for the clouds to lift (they never did), I finally got back on the trail around 1pm.
The elevation profile for the remainder of the trail is intense. And this section started off with a 3,000' climb out of Snoqualmie Pass. But I don't think I'll be complaining about the ups and downs (too much), because in only half a day there have already been some incredible views.
This is a different kind of scenery than the volcanoes that we have been passing for the last several hundred miles. The volcanoes dominate the landscape, and (as I'm sure folks have noticed) are the subject of the majority of the photos. The wilderness I hiked through today didn't have one peak, lake, or glacier that stood out. It was a combination of everything.
Clouds are finally starting to break
I found myself out on several different points taking panoramic pictures, and then spinning in circles as I took in views from every angle. At some point, I could see the next seven miles of trail, which traversed a gigantic, rugged, lake and rock-filled basin. And then I got to walk through the whole thing, making it all the way to the other side and looking back at my initial perch. It was pretty rad.
Yep, the trail goes through all of that
I would like to say I stealthily snuck up on this guy. But really I just walked right up to him
Instead of walking until dark, I stopped about an hour early at a nice looking campsite nestled in some trees (hopefully sheltered from the wind). I'm back to hiking by myself, and I'm trying to throttle back the daily mileage for these last few sections. I'm sure my legs will appreciate that 😊
Woo hoo!
Day 111: mile 2405.3 - 2432.3
- Midnight visitors
- Oregon flashbacks
- Potentially dangerous trail
I'm not sure if my senses are heightened when I camp by myself, or if it is just coincidental, but it was a night filled with four legged visitors (of the deer variety). I finally got some sleep once I put my earplugs in. When I got up in the middle of the night to empty my bladder, I had barely made it back inside my tent when I heard the pawing of a deer where I had just peed. I unzipped my tent and rain fly, stuck my head out, and turned on my headlamp, shining it on a doe who was eating the wet dirt that I had just made. The animals up here are so starved for salt and other minerals that they are happy to chow down on the stuff that my body decides it no longer needs. Next time maybe I should just pee in a cup to help out the deer...
No clouds today!
Once she left and I fell back asleep, I slept until well after the sun was up. Funny how that works. It was a thousand foot climb to start the day, then a three thousand foot descent, then a three thousand foot climb, then another three thousand foot descent before a gradual two thousand foot climb to camp. Best get used to this.
I love listening to the sound of crashing water
If the views that have accompanied the steeper trail continue, then I'm not going to complain. It was another day of awesome panoramas, with rugged snow-capped peaks overlooking forested valleys filled with lakes and streams. Waterfalls, wildflowers, and wildlife all made appearances today. As did blowdowns. In a flashback to southern Oregon, there was a brief mile or so where it was back to hurdling trees that had fallen across the trail. At least there weren't mosquitos this time.
Well, this was the trail...
I also realized how dangerous this trail could be, at least for me. I have this habit of gawking at the scenery, especially when we get to the top of these climbs and you can see for miles. This means I'm not looking at the trail. Which is sometimes winding along a fairly steep hillside. So gawking and walking is not the best combo, especially when we know men are not the best multi-taskers. Fortunately I'm getting better about stopping and staring (which helps keep me from wandering off the trail). It has only taken 2,400 miles...
Eyes on the trail, Garrett
Lunch and a lake
Despite the late start and what seemed like a leisurely pace, I made it further than I expected today. I'm camped at Deep Lake, which seems to be a popular option for overnight hikers as well. I'm lying here listening to barking dogs and laughing people. Maybe that will make it easier to get up in the morning.
Day 112: mile 2432.3 - 2454.2
- Sleeping in
- Piper Pass
- Easy does it
Nope. No excuses for sleeping in this morning. Aside from not having many miles planned. And being very comfortable and warm in my sleeping bag. And being in the bottom of a big hole, where the sun wouldn't hit until 9am. Eventually the prospect of doing a 1,500 foot climb in the shade got me on the trail, albeit around 7:30.
Deep Lake, once I finished the morning climb
Today was similar to yesterday, in that there was a lot of steep ups and downs, but the work was rewarded with pretty cool panoramic views. From Piper Pass we could see a massive, pointy, snow-covered peak to the north, which I think is Glacier Peak. I remember Mighty telling me that this was one of her favorite Washington mountains, but that "we wouldn't see it until the very end". While it still doesn't feel like "the very end", with less than 200 miles to go and my second-to-last resupply being picked up tomorrow, my mentality is slowly shifting.
Still snowy
Deception Lake (not sure what was so deceptive about it...)
Part of that mentality is reflected in today's mileage. I haven't done less than 22 miles on a non-town day since day 36 (when I summited Glen and Pinchot Passes). It was a leisurely morning, followed by hiking at a leisurely pace, with leisurely breaks spaces liberally throughout the day, and more conversations than usual with day and section hikers. With many of the other thru hikers racing to the border to meet their deadlines, I'm planning to slow down a bit for this last little stretch.
These mountains are pretty cool!
While this means I won't be finishing with some folks who I have hiked on and off with, it does mean I'll have a few extra days on the trail, and a few extra days to enjoy the scenery. Which, from here on out, is supposed to be pretty phenomenal.
I think that is Glacier Peak way in the distance. I think...
Day 113.5: mile 2454.3 - 2461.6
- Stevens Pass
What I used to consider "sleeping in" has now become normal. I just can't drag my butt out of bed before 6am. I would feel lazy about this, but the later starts seem to be trending among thru-hikers. Everyone seems pretty exhausted and everyone is feeling the more challenging terrain. So I'm not alone.
After finally getting going this morning it was seven miles into Stevens Pass. I ran into another thru hiker (also named Garrett, also an engineer) and chatted with him for the last three miles, which made the climb up, and descent down, a ski slope more bearable. Let's just say I think taking a ski lift is the right way to get to the top of a slope. Walking up a ski slope involves a bit more effort...
Morning sun
I told myself I would probably hitch to a nearby town and rest for the remainder of the day (maybe even take a zero tomorrow), but as soon as I sat down for a few minutes at Stevens Pass I started getting restless, and decided to hang out here while handling my resupply before hiking out this afternoon/evening. The grass is always greener...
This next section is just as steep as the last one, and many southbound and section hikers have said it is the hardest of Washington, and arguably the trail. We'll see if it lives up to the hype!