Trail Notes
For as excited and romanticized as our group was imagining our 'return to the PCT' to be, our first night’s campsite was far from glamorous. It was a cul-de-sac at the end of a dirt road, in the dingy interstate town of Cabazon. We camped about ten feet from the trail, at the point where, over a year ago, we begrudgingly took a detour via public transit around a forty-two mile section that was closed due to a fire.
After a whopping four hours at Stevens Pass, I was itching to get moving again. But not before appropriately feeding myself. Which, given the limited options at an ski lodge during summer, meant settling for an ice cream cone. With all the huckleberries I have been eating, you would think I would want to try new flavors. Nope. So I walked out of Stevens Pass with a fully loaded pack and a huckleberry flavored waffle cone in hand.
After a hot double breakfast (it's going to take me a while to get used to eating a single breakfast once I get off the trail) and an unusual amount of socialization/procrastination while waiting for the clouds to lift (they never did), I finally got back on the trail around 1pm.
Not sure if it was the beer, the bed, or both, but I slept like a freaking log. My body didn't seem thrilled about getting the day started, but my wallet (a ziploc baggie with some cash, a credit card, and my ID) said that staying in White Pass for another day and night was a no-no. So by 8am I was packed, breakfasted, and on the trail.
The Perseid meteor shower peaked last night. Not the most ideal place to view it from while hiking the PCT (an RV park, in a town, at the lowest elevation of the trail), but we still saw some awesome meteors that we couldn't have seen in LA or Seattle. That was the latest I had gone to bed in a long time.
It was only a short walk to the cafe that Scarecrow (the hiker who gave me a ride into Bend) recommended. Which was a good thing, because by the time I had finished both breakfasts (first a bacon omelet, then a stack of pancakes with bacon on the side) I wasn't walking very fast. Breakfast has to be my favorite town meal.
Shelter Cove was quite the resort, but I decided against paying to camp amongst tens of RVs and the dozen or so section hikers that showed up after me. So I spent the afternoon eating two hot dogs (fully loaded with ketchup, mustard, relish, onions, and sauerkraut), two ice cream bars, a bag of dried fruit, and half a box of Triscuits. I don't even want to know what my digestive system is thinking right now, but it doesn't seem to complain too much anymore. I think it says something like "Calories? Watch what I can do with those!"
It was a little over four miles to the Rim Village, where we would get our first view of the lake, top off our water bottles, and make our way through the mass of weekend tourists before starting the walk along Crater Lake's western rim. As I climbed those four miles, the smoke got thicker and the choppers got louder. Near the top a little bit of ash started falling on me. Let's hope the trail stays open...
I made sure to set an alarm this morning so that I would actually get up before my checkout time. As much as I like curling up in my sleeping bag and waking up with a cold nose, it sure is nice to bury yourself in the covers and pillows of a queen-sized bed. I guess everything in moderation?
It's too bad mattresses weigh so much, because they are soooo comfortable to sleep on. Clean body, clean sheets, and a comfy mattress made for a good night of sleep. And a serious morning deliberation of whether or not I wanted to stay another day. I decided to punt the decision until after breakfast, so I biked to the restaurant and had a great meal of eggs, hashbrowns, pancakes, and bacon. In hindsight, that probably wasn't the best way to convince myself to leave town. But I somehow decided to get back on the trail.
The three of us did a good job of motivating each other to get out of bed this morning. I think we were all a little sore and tired, but eager to get back on the trail. After a less-than-impressive continental breakfast, we were able to get an easy ride back to the trailhead from a local trail angel. People's kindness continues to inspire and impress me.
I saved a mile and a half with a successful hitch to the trailhead. A seventy year old couple (the second car to pass me) from Flagstaff picked me up, and were anxious to hear all about the trail, pelting me with questions which continued until well after we got to the trailhead. They were also hikers, although after a few knee replacements they limited themselves to day hikes. We wished each other well, and it was time to start walking.
It was up early, goodbye to the parents, and on the road to Echo Lake by 4:45. I didn't know Darby knew how to wake up that early. We were to the trailhead by 6am, after a drive filled with breakfast burritos, terribly singing songs I hadn't heard in forever (more on that later) and beautiful views of Lake Tahoe.
After sleeping through my alarm (as can be expected when sleeping with earplugs in) I got back on the trail around 6:30. The first few miles were very touristy (wide trails, informational signs telling you about the wilderness/wildlife, deer that let you walk within ten yards of them, etc.), but things started returning to normal after that. The first creek/river crossing had a bridge. As did the second. But not the third. Or the fourth. Or the fifth... Looks like it's back to fording. Hello again, wet feet!
It was up with the sun, packing our packs, and sitting down for one more hot meal before returning to our regular oatmeal and granola. After a stack of pancakes the size of my face, and more eggs/bacon, all that was left to do was pay my tab (ouch...) and take the ferry across Edison Lake to the trail.
Note from the future: I'm still alive! And I found one of the (few?) places that Verizon cell towers can't reach. I'm posting this from mile 1092.3 (South Lake Tahoe) and am taking a few days off the trail and staying with my parents in Reno. I'll be posting a few updates over the next few days (in the order I initially intended). For now, enjoy days 35-40, where I wade through the heart of the Sierra!
The campground was a good call. With the exception of a car that drove in around hiker midnight, it was a good nights sleep.
I was on a chilly trail by 6am, with my pack and feet feeling muuuch better than last night...
